I Got to wear the Suit

I could never imagine as I sit here early morning in Campo S. Marghererita sipping coffee eating a Ventagli that even after such a magical experience and knowing myself to be easily moved most particularly at this time in my life that my last day in Venice would be so profound. This city has touched me more than any that has come before her; I am absorbed. Feeling as if I too have become a part of the soul that makes Venice so. In the 33 days of my stay I entered possibly only three historical places all of them churches. Once during my historical walk with Barbara, once for Irene in hopes that the Marble cathedral would help me connect with her to send her love and healing light. And once for Venice, in reverence to the creations of man that surround, me moved to my knees in expression, helpless to find any other way, Venice I bow before you. From a marsh dotted with small islands the flatland of silt upon which you built the foundation from which you rise. For close to 1700 years thriving surviving building a creation of historical, cultural, sociological proportions none have quite come to understand or express. Many have tried to attempt to share the feeling evoked through experiencing Venice none of which although admirable cannot begin to be complete if one has not swam in the lagoon or made a weak attempt too play in the sand. A miracle that you have preserved so completely your heart and sparkle in your eyes. Venice is like a beautiful woman who has beaten the ravages of time. There is a legend that the Holy Grail is buried under the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta on the Island of Torcello the first recognized settlement of the Veneti, basically where Venice was born around the time of 452 when people fled to the safety of the lagoons as a result of the recurring invasions of the barbarians from the north and east particularly Attila the Hun. I heard this legend from my friend Isacco a Venetian as we toured the island. If there is any truth to the legend of the Holy Grail than it is believable that it could be buried here, as Venice feels eternal. I have so many last minute pieces to put together and yet I am resistant to rise form my seat like an angry child stubborn to stay just a little while longer, just a little while longer, nothing other than will, the will to shift space and time by simply holding my breath. In surrender I decide I will accomplish the packing task in tandem. As I pass by my apartment on my way to have lunch with Marco and Davide my two jeweler ski buddies, I stop and spend 15 min. organizing stage 1. Then off to the jewelry store to hook up with the boys. They take me to their favorite restaurant now reopened after a summer break. The restaurant is located in one of the most charming Campos in the city San Giacomo dell’ Orio. A large Campo with a beautiful Chiesa; di San Giacomo dell’ Orio. One of the oldest in Venice it dates back to the 9th or 10h century. There are clusters of trees, benches, shops and one of the most beautiful apartment terraces in the city. Marco gave me a rundown of the specialties and his preferred dishes. As I often do I welcome the recommendation of my host I say sono con te (I’m with you.) I believe there is little point in making a decision on what to eat in a situation like this, the host I know will have a wonderful meal, never fails I always do as well. Today’s lunch is a salad with fresh vegetables and greens, served on an oversized plate, which included a grand offering of thinly sliced raw fish. Swordfish, tuna, octopus (slightly cooked,) salmon, clavier, baccala, thin and crisp bread sticks a little bread for a spread and a bottle of perfect white wine and voila you have it the Shannon special! A lunch she could eat every day possibly forever regardless of the magical location, however I somehow expect this would add some contribution to the over all experience, it most certainly did for me. Our lunch was brief today not the 2.5 hours as our first lunch just 1.5 hours. Today we did not rush however this was a business as usual day. Davide and Marco had creations to manifest and I had to pack and still meet with Ciccio for a couple of hours. Ciccio calls at precisely the agreed time, the moment we pay the bill. Walking back to the jewelry store with the guys, I have to slow down, caught up in the getting to know you and the planning of our next reunion I forgot to adjust my awareness, my lens to wide angle. I do so catching myself, now I am seeing feeling hearing and absorbing no less than 28 mm. As we walk, we talk of the ski trips we will take, the mountain cabin we will stay in, one room built of stone no water no lights. Just candles guitars wine food skis and two great guys, I suspect are great skiers and who will be life long friends. We talk of Debbie coming and they invite us to spend a weekend in the country with them. They, as are Venice and I, looking forward to Debbie visiting for 20 days. I can hardly wait to introduce Debbie to Venice and Venice to Debbie. Debbie Venice is waiting for you with open arms you only need to learn two words, Tutto Bene! I’ll take care of the rest along with the help of the crew of course.
Ciccio and I rendezvous at the jewelry store and after some laughs and a few photos off he and I go to look at apartments for my return. He only has a few hours left before he flies too Sardinia to the grand event the wedding of his brother Giuseppe to Alessandra; and yet he says, “don’t worry Jeff we have plenty of time.” In less than two hours we do it all including having time to chat on the street with a couple of people Ciccio meets along the way and still at the last minute have time to sit down for a drink at one last “very special place” Ciccio wants to share with me. The Bar is closed; this is a Ciccio Joke more times than I can count Ciccio says let’s go here we get there and the place is closed, this time it was the middle of the afternoon and the place was closed. However the door was slightly ajar so we walked in. Ciccio knowing the bartender I suspect also the owner he gladly served us. I did not even realize the bar was closed until I saw three different groups of potential customers turned away as Cicco and I sat outside sipping our beer and wine perspectivly. I feel embarrassed and at the same time special as we sit enjoying our time together. Ciccio helps me translate a note I am writing Rachele to thank her for all her kindness, I have not had the chance to say good by and I have a couple of pictures I want to share with her. This accomplished it is time for Ciccio to take off we say till next time and off he goes and I to finish packing. I cannot find the words or any action for that matter to express to Ciccio my thanks to him for all he has done and the role he has played in this central casting experience of “Jeff in Venice.” I do know that Ciccio and I will share many years of laughter together and “Very Special Times” to Ciccio “The Prince of Venice” I thank you. I want to give a few gifts before I leave. I printed off some pictures and placed them into thank you cards, I ask Christian if he will help me translate my words into Italian, he tells me that he is free in twenty minutes. We meet in the Ghetto. Such an interesting place the Ghetto, holding a huge piece of the history of the Jewish people as a treasure for the world to touch and feel. I believe that the Ghetto is of the most significant pieces of Venetian history there is, certainly it cannot not be measured or forgotten. Barbara was telling me as we strolled through the Ghetto on my private afternoon history lesson time with Barbara (a Venetian tour guide and concierge and now good friend) that once she viewed an apartment to rent in the Ghetto. The apartment was everything she could ever want in an apartment however there was one small problem the ceiling height was so low that she could not stand up straight, the ceiling being 2 inches lower that she stands. Remember the Jews were only given a two-block area for so many people (up to 4,000 at one point) that they had to take advantage of every square inch of space. My day with Barbara was informational but also fun and delightful. We ran into her parents, they were out shopping for an apartment for Barbara to buy. I enjoyed very much having the opportunity to meet them and spend time together. Barbara you remind me so much of your mother! Ha Ha!
Christian and I met in the central square of the Ghetto and we jump into the boat my favorite piece of Venice. Christian must know this, as there was really no reason what so ever for us to go anywhere, I had only asked him for a couple of minutes too help with some simple translations for two cards. We could have done this sitting on a bench in the square. But Christian has a plan he knows how much I love the boat and the water but I have missed a very important piece. In all the time I have spent on the water in the boat thanks to Christian and Ciccio although the weather has been beautiful most of the time due to the humidity I have never seen the mountains. Christian had told me that on a clear day you could see the mountains, but I had no idea how beautiful and how surprisingly close they were. Today was a clear day and Christian took me out into the lagoon to share with me the view. And yes I was taken back in awe and surprise at not only the beauty but how close the mountains really are. Thank you Christian for thinking of me and sharing this experience, now it seriously time to pack. I go back to my apartment and finish stage two of packing. I then gather my cards and gifts and go off to Postali to meet with the crew and have one last drink together before I leave for Thailandia. The whole crew is not there however Luca and Mara are as well as Serge, David the violinist, Diana the writer and Phillipo the musician. I give them my gifts and my love and off I go, to their surprise, but I still have packing to do and a good nights sleep to get as my taxi arrives at 8:am. On the way back to my apartment I run into Enrico and his girlfriend Chiara, they are on their way back home to change for the opening of a new bar restaurant, it is a formal affair a velvet rope event. They invite me along, I hesitate however this could be interesting and I still have not had the opportunity to wear my best suit, which I brought along in case of just this sort of occasion. I hurry back to my apartment to shower and change. I decide that in that I have seen the sun rise three times in 4.5 weeks why not see tomorrows as it is my last night in Venice, this trip, and I can always sleep on the plane or so I hope. We meet in Campo S. Polo they have brought along a friend Celestra, and off the four if us go to the grand opening. The event was as described and as expected. This was the first time I experienced an event with this part of Venetian society. Many of those in attendance were my age and very well dressed, I however was over dressed, oh well I did get to wear the suit. The event was boring and a bit snobbish we decide to go, and we end up back at Postali which I prefer much more. A few more of the crew had gathered and I was able to say a few more good bys before I left. Spending only a few minutes at Postali I return to my apartment and finish packing. I then go for a late night walk through the city, catch a short nap and then at 8:am I load into my taxi and off I go back to Portland for a short week before I leave for Thailand. Ciao Venezia fino alla volta prossima.